Kentucky Spring “Surf” and Turf: Local Beef, oyster mushrooms, and black garlic risotto
Oyster mushrooms growing on hardwoods.
Spring is amazing in Kentucky. The daffodils are in full sunny force. The tulips are opening. The dogwoods and redbuds are in full glory. So too are our foals and calves dropping onto grassy fields for the first time, ready to begin their lives eating Kentucky bluegrass, drinking our naturally-filtered limestone water, and roaming our hills and hollers, where mushrooms are beginning to proliferate with the springtime extremes.
Commonly found growing on hardwoods, oyster mushrooms grow in Kentucky from spring through fall near areas of high humidity. That is, our ponds, our hollers, our many lakes, creeks and streams. Kentucky is a perfect breeding ground for mushrooms due to our dense forests and humid mountains, particularly to the east. I'm not a forager, but should you find yourself interested, I wouldn't go without consulting the safety guide issued by the University of Kentucky here.
Harvested oyster mushrooms have a bell-shaped top with long, distinct gills.
Oyster mushrooms are fascinating. They are mild in flavor with a subtle flavor combining woodsy, anise, and sea salt notes. If prepared with care, they will add these notes to whatever you make. Most mushrooms are also highly nutritious. Oyster mushrooms, like most edible mushrooms, is high in Vitamin D and is one of the only vegan sources of Vitamin D outside of sunlight. They are also high in B vitamins, antioxidants, and other immune-boosting compounds.
This week's menu features several local brands. The filet came from Hollow Oak Farm, which is my go-to source for most beef and pork in the area. The mushrooms came from my Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) subscription from Elmwood Stock Farm. The black garlic comes from Salad Days Farm, and it's a real treat. Once you learn how to use it, you'll never want to be without it.
This will make four servings. Let's get started.
Ingredients:
0.5-1 beef filet per person (the ones from Hollow Oak Farm are too rich to eat more than half of a filet at a time!)
1 very large/2 medium oyster mushrooms, roughly chopped (You can substitute shiitake if you need to - they are more earthy when cooked but have a similar woodsy-spice quality).
1 cup white arborio rice
6 tbsp unsalted butter
1-2 cloves black garlic
1/4 cup white wine (Optional - you can substitute water or mushroom broth)
1/4 cup beef broth
1 cup cold filtered water
1/3 cup Gruyère cheese, grated (I prefer the cave-aged if you can find it)
1 large basil leaf, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Dash high-temperature oil (avocado, coconut, canola)
First, start the rice. Risotto is easier than people think. Toast the rice in a dry pan for 30 seconds, then add 1 tbsp butter, mix in, and let toast another 30 seconds on medium. Add beef broth, salt, and half of the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Stir every five minutes or so for 20 minutes, adding bits of the rest of the water during each stirring interval.
Heat a large pan on medium-high with a thin coating of any high-temperature oil. While heating, apply salt and pepper to both sides of your filet(s). Once heated, place in the pan to begin searing. Sear on both sides until it reaches the temperature you desire. Remove and let it rest at least 5 minutes before slicing.
Let the steak pan cool down, then add half of the butter, mushrooms, and black garlic. Sautee until mostly cooked, then add the white wine and cook down until almost syrupy.
Add the Gruyère to the risotto and the rest of the butter, stir, and then plate. Check to see if it needs more salt before finishing. Slice the beef filets along the bias once fully rested. Top with the mushrooms/sauce and basil.
Serve hot. This meal is great with a freezing ice water (as cold as you can make it) and/or a mid-peat Scotch. In either case, a fresh orange wedge after the meal is a perfect palate finisher.
